Do Perms Damage Your Hair (And Is It Really Permanent?) (2024)

From neat bobbed ringlets of the 1920s to bouffant 80s curls, perms have fallen in and out of fashion favour for decades. In recent years, they’ve had a bit of an unlikely resurgence among young men, with K-pop stars, TikTokers, and actors all helping to popularise the perm.

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But perms can do real damage to your hair. The perming process breaks structural bonds within your hair, making it more vulnerable to dryness, chemical penetration, and breakage [1]. At worst, perms and hair relaxers can lead to hair becoming so dry and brittle that it breaks off in bulk, jeopardising the thickness and appearance of your hair.

In this article, you’ll learn all about the risks of hair perms so you can decide whether they outweigh the benefits. This includes:

  • How perms damage your hair.
  • Whether perm hair damage is permanent.
  • How badly perms and relaxers can affect your hair.
  • How to protect hair and limit damage when getting a perm.

Table of Contents

  • What is a perm and how does it damage hair?
  • Is there a difference between perms for men vs perms for women?
  • Will a perm damage my hair permanently?
  • How badly do perms damage hair?
  • Can permed hair still be healthy?
  • How to limit hair damage when getting a perm
  • Will a perm cause hair loss?
  • What to do about perm-related hair loss and hair breakage
  • FAQs

What is a perm and how does it damage hair?

A perm is a chemical process that involves deliberately breaking the disulfide bonds within your hair fibres, then reforming them in a new curl pattern. Unlike temporary curling with heat or rollers, a perm will hold its shape for several months without needing top-up styling treatments, even after washing, exercising, or swimming.

But the processes used to perm hair can cause significant damage. Breaking and reforming disulfide bonds requires chemical or heat treatment, both of which can harm your hair.

There are two main perming methods: cold perms and hot perms. Cold perms are used more frequently than hot perms, although hot perms (also known as digital perms, as the curler temperature is digitally controlled) are becoming more popular. The table below tells you how each method works and the potential damage it can cause.

Perm techniqueHow it worksRisks & potential damage [1]
Cold perm/chemical permHair is set in curlers before ammonium thioglycolate is applied to break the disulfide bonds. Molecules within hair proteins can then move freely until a neutralising agent like hydrogen peroxide is applied to reform the bonds in the new curl pattern.
  • Cuticle damage
  • Increased hair porosity leading to dryness
  • Skin irritation
  • Allergic reaction
  • Cytotoxicity (cell damage)
  • Immediate or delayed skin hypersensitivity
  • Exposure to carcinogens such as aromatic amines
Hot perm/digital permHair is set in cool curlers or rods before an acidic solution is applied to break the bonds. The curlers or rods are then heated to a preset temperature to set the new curl pattern.
  • Cuticle damage
  • Increased hair porosity leading to dryness
  • Burns and consequent scarring alopecia
  • Allergic reaction

The cuticle is the outer shaft of the hair strand. It consists of several overlapping layers to add protection to the inner hair fibre. By design, perming techniques lift the cuticle so the perming agent can reach and break the disulfide bonds within the hair cortex.

But lifting the hair cuticle makes your hair look and feel less smooth. Over time, with multiple treatments, this can give your hair a straw-like texture that indicates substantial hair damage.

Is there a difference between perms for men vs perms for women?

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No — regardless of your gender, perms are performed the same way. That means there’s the same risk of hair damage for both men and women.

Because men tend to wear their hair shorter, the risks of long-term hair problems are somewhat lower. With regular haircuts, men can remove the results of a bad perm within a few months. Women who wear their hair long are stuck with perm damage for much longer.

Will a perm damage my hair permanently?

While certain conditioning and smoothing treatments can help flatten the hair cuticle and make your hair feel smoother, any perm-related damage is likely to be permanent [2]. So aim to prioritise damage limitation over hair repair (more on how you can do this later).

The only way to repair damaged hair from perming is to chop it off. So consider the risks carefully before opting for a perm.

How badly do perms damage hair?

Perms affect your hair on a cellular and molecular level [2]. The extent of your hair damage depends on a few factors, including:

  • The type of perm you have.
  • Whether you’ve had any other hair treatments (including dyeing or bleaching your hair).
  • How often you use chemical relaxers, perming solutions, or other treatments.

The effects of perming accumulate with each treatment, so the more you relax or chemically alter your hair, the more damage you’ll do.

Perming after dyeing or bleaching your hair can be particularly destructive. Not only will this dry out your hair, it can also ruin the results of your perm, leaving you with fried, overprocessed, shapeless hair:

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Hot perms also contribute to loss of moisture in your hair, as well as degradation of essential amino acids [1, 3].

Hair damage can be a serious blow to your confidence. If a perm makes your hair break off in large amounts, you may need a significant trim to restore your hair health.

Can permed hair still be healthy?

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Your hair may still look healthy after one, two, or even more perm treatments. But because the effects accumulate, you will do more harm to your hair with each perm treatment you get. So even if your perm looks healthy and feels smooth, you need to take extra steps to keep it in good condition.

Signs that permed hair is healthy include:

  • A new curl pattern that stays intact for at least three months without becoming frizzy or dry.
  • No splitting or fraying at the ends of your hair.
  • Hair feels smooth and soft to the touch.
  • Your hair appears sleek and shiny, indicating a high level of hydration and nourishment.

How to limit hair damage when getting a perm

Getting a perm means accepting some risk of hair damage. But there are a few ways to protect your hair and limit the detrimental effects of a perm:

  1. Use conditioning treatments liberally — You’ll need to use plenty of conditioner to keep your hair looking and feeling sleek before, during, and after perm treatment. This includes leave-in conditioners and masks. Humectants like hyaluronic acid for hair may also help retain moisture.
  2. Never get a perm on processed hair — Getting a perm on bleached, relaxed, or chemically treated hair is a big risk. If you’re considering a perm, make sure to tell your stylist about any and all hair treatments you’ve had beforehand so they can assess the risks.
  3. Don’t wash your hair for 72 hours after a perm — Water can make your curls fall out, so avoid washing your hair (or getting it wet in any way) for at least three days (or five if your hair can handle it).
  4. Don’t colour, dye, or bleach your hair in the short-term — Ideally, you’ll avoid overprocessing your hair with colour after a perm. But if you must dye or bleach your hair, leave at least a week after getting a perm before applying any colour.
  5. Detangle your hair carefully when wet — Wet hair is more prone to breakage than dry hair, but brushing your hair when dry may interfere with the curl pattern. Use a wide-toothed comb to detangle hair after washing, then leave it to air dry.
  6. Minimise heat-styling — Try to avoid using a hairdryer, straighteners, or curling tongs for as long as you can. If you need to use these tools, wait for at least three days after your perm, and always use a heat protector spray or serum.

Will a perm cause hair loss?

In some cases, a perm can lead to hair loss. This is more likely to happen if you apply perming chemicals on treated hair (such as bleached, dyed, or relaxed hair). Some people have found their hair falling out in clumps after a perm for this reason:

At-home perms are one of the riskiest ways to get quick permanent curls. Perming is a professional technique that should only be performed by qualified stylists (and even then you can run into problems).

Minimise the risk of perm-related hair loss by visiting a reputable, recommended hair salon. And if they advise against getting a perm due to existing hair damage or treatments, it’s probably best to take this on board.

Perms can also cause significant hair breakage. While this isn’t true hair loss — your hair snaps off mid-strand, rather than coming loose at the root — it still makes your hair look thin and frail. Breakage happens when your hair cuticle lifts and cracks, weakening the hair fibre until it fractures.

What to do about perm-related hair loss and hair breakage

If the damage is done, there’s not much you can do to save your hair after a bad perm. But you can take steps to strengthen your existing hair and encourage healthy new growth:

  • Get a haircut that makes you feel confident and attractive despite your hair loss. See these female hairstyles for a receding hairline and short hairstyles for women over 50 for inspiration.
  • Use Minoxidil and/or platelet-rich plasma (PRP) hair treatments to promote hair regrowth with minimal side effects.
  • Make sure you’re eating a balanced diet, washing your hair regularly and living a healthy lifestyle to promote hair growth.
  • Speak to a trichologist to determine any other underlying causes of hair loss. Women’s hair loss in particular tends to have multiple causes that aren’t always clear without hair loss blood tests and other diagnostics.

At the Wimpole Clinic, we specialise in offering the best female hair loss treatments and male hair loss treatments to anyone with hair problems. Our team is friendly, approachable, and non-judgemental — we make sure you’re comfortable discussing any kind of hair loss with us, whether it’s hereditary balding or unhealthy styling practices.

Book a consultation at your nearest hair loss clinic location to get a tailored treatment plan.

FAQs

Find out more about perms, hair damage, and hair loss in these frequently asked questions.

For most people, perm curls fall out within three to six months, reverting to your normal hair texture. You may find that the perm has made your hair frizzier or drier than before.

You have a few options if you’re not happy with the results of your perm:

  • Trim your hair to reduce the proportion of damage and encourage healthy new growth.
  • Give yourself a hair detox complete with deep conditioning treatments and nourishing hair oils.
  • Use heat-free curlers on a daily basis to refresh your curls.
  • Wash your hair sooner than recommended to encourage the perm to reset (although there’s no guarantee your hair will go back to its original shape and texture following this).
  • Return to your stylist (or visit a different salon) to see if they can recommend any ways to fix a bad perm.

When they’re successful, perms can give you voluminous, textured hair that looks great without spending hours with the curling tongs each day. This saves you time and makes it easy to achieve your preferred look every day.

The Wimpole Clinic offers FUE Hair, Beard & Eyebrow Transplants & Trichology.
Talk to a specialist ☎ 020 7935 1861.

Do Perms Damage Your Hair (And Is It Really Permanent?) (2024)
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